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7/08/2010

FAB Knifeless Facelift Debuts

Plastic surgeon David M. Alessi, MD, FACS

David M. Alessi, M.D., FACS, in his office with his patient, 50, showing results of her recent FAB Facelift.


When we get word of a “facelift” that doesn’t involve surgery, our skepticism meter immediately starts running. Sure, cosmetic treatments like “lifting” facials feel good and make our skin glow for a short time, but for a real wrinkle overhaul, we know that nothing supplants the scalpel.


But plastic surgeon David M. Alessi, M.D., FACS, who recently invited us to his Beverly Hills, CA, office to see his latest handiwork, the FAB Facelift, actually does deliver a youthifying treatment without a single cut. The secret is in the deft combination of the three tools represented in the treatment’s acronym: “F” for fillers (Restylane, Radiesse, etc., to plump up deep lines); “A” for ablative laser (which removes superficial wrinkles and tightens underlying collagen); and “B” for the old standby, Botox, to relax worry lines.


While Alessi is the first to concede he “can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear,” he did make a 50-year-old patient he had on hand at his intro event look like a vibrant 40. In fact, the only downside we could see to the procedure, which requires just a single day of recovery time, is its cost: $3,000. And while even that may seem like a relative bargain compared to a surgical facelift, it is essentially a temporary procedure — a stopgap measure to hold off a full facelift rather than a permanent fix, as Alessi explains it. FAB’s flattering effects last a year to 18 months, depending mostly on how carefully you protect your new face from the sun.


We like the newer, more subtle options for facial work. To read more about the increasingly wide array of medical cosmetic options, see “Youth Movement” in VIV’s upcoming July/August issue.


And tell us, would you consider employing any or all of these wrinkle removers?

Riccardo Tisci’s skeletons, Perrone steps down from Brioni, Ferré’s new deadline, Appvertising takes off, Slow fashion

Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2010 | Source: Style.com

Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2010 | Source: Style.com


Skeletons, Family and Religion (IHT)

“There was little of the sharp tailoring associated with Givenchy, where Mr. Tisci has been the creative director for five years… In an interview, the designer explained his vision.”


Perrone Quits as CEO of Italian Suitmaker Brioni (Bloomberg)

“Perrone, the 40-year-old grandson of Brioni co-founder Gaetano Savini, was appointed sole CEO in July last year, replacing a governing committee, of which he was part. The move was partly to accelerate decision-making, he said at the time.”


IT Holding Administrators Extend Bid Deadline for Ferré (Bloomberg)

“Administrators for IT Holding, the Italian fashion company being reorganized under government- backed bankruptcy protection, extended the deadline for binding offers for the Gianfranco Ferré label.”


Apple’s Appvertising Takes Off (Brand Channel)

“To make iAd advertising as effective as possible, Apple is looking to mesh interaction with emotion… Apple is reportedly ’studying the buying habits’ of 150 million iTune users so it can target its mobile ads.”


Slow fashion: forever yours (Guardian)

“The concept of fast fashion – the hunger for a cheap Saturday night top that gets bought, worn once or twice and swiftly dumped – is fast fading. In its place we have slow fashion, the pre-eminence of terminally stylish designs with lasting appeal.

Berlin’s best, Fashioning free phones, Seeking China’s Lagerfeld, Gaultier’s treasure, Valentino in the black?


La Mode Berlin (WSJ)

“The city’s edgy, sexy vibe was evident on Wednesday as German designers kicked off Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week, which runs through Saturday. Getting on the world’s fashion map isn’t easy, but Berlin is trying.”


American Eagle Promotes Apparel With Free Phones (WSJ)

“Teen retailers in particular have struggled against gadget makers for control of younger buyers’ wallets. Since the recession, cash-strapped teens have opted to spend what little discretionary income they have on electronics, forcing retailers to compete heavily on price.”


Fashion Industry Waiting For China’s Karl Lagerfeld (Jing Daily)

“We’ve covered the gradual appearance of Chinese design cues in recent collections by top Western fashion and luxury houses, but what’s the status of China’s home-grown designers? When will we see them on the global stage?”


National Treasure (IHT)

“There comes a moment when a great designer moves from being a creative force to a national treasure. With his haute couture show Wednesday, Jean Paul Gaultier took that step.”


Valentino May Be Profitable in 2010; Permira Committed (Bloomberg)

“‘If we are moving ahead at this speed and the economic situation is fine, we can reach good results very soon,’…. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization ‘could be positive’ this year.”

Company of We | Building an Online Fashion Business

Company of We, S/S 2010 | Source: Company of We

Company of We, S/S 2010 | Source: Company of We


NEW YORK, United States — Today, building a strong online sales channel is often vital to the success of an emerging fashion business. But because the task can seem daunting, many young designers delay developing their own e-commerce sites, and instead outsource their internet sales to online retailers, losing a significant share of full retail margin that can be earned when selling directly to the end consumer.


While it’s almost always cost-prohibitive for a new brand to open a bricks-and-mortar store in the early days of the development of a new fashion business, New York-based menswear label Company of We has proven that setting up a fully owned and operated e-commerce presence from day one can be done — and done well — in a way that’s cost-effective and relatively simple.


Company of We, the brainchild of Jayzel Samonte and Christopher Crawford, began in June 2009 entirely as an e-commerce site. There was no budget for expensive fashion presentations or advertising campaigns. But when the young brand launched its first line online, it sold out — 2,000 units to be exact — in just eight days.


Starting their company online felt like a completely normal and natural move, says Jayzel: “I think it is where things have evolved to. All of our friends shop online at designer sales sites like Gilt Groupe and rarely go to luxury department stores unless it’s sale season.”


So how did they do it?


The partners began by researching off-the-shelf software packages. “If you devote a weekend to it, you can do it on your own. You can build it from the ground up, [adding] shopping cart software to your existing site. Or you can purchase all-inclusive programs like Volusion [that come with] a concise inventory system, shopping cart, ROI Tracking, customer database and easy to use templates.”


Not wanting to limit themselves to a templated look and feel, Company of We ultimately hired web technicians to help them. But, with the bottom line in mind, the pair instructed their developers to create a simple site focused solely on product. “It’s important not to go crazy on sophisticated flash presentations and complicated designs when you can achieve the same level of success by keeping it clean, concise and focused,” advises Jayzel.


“It’s very low overhead to start as an e-commerce store. You’re looking at $2,000-3,000 dollars a month,” adds Christopher. Compare that with commercial rents for physical space, which can easily add up to ten times this amount.


Easy online data tracking was another plus. “We were methodical with our ROI tracking and tracked our growth on sites like Alexa and Google Analytics,” Jayzel explains.


And then there’s the added advantage of dealing with the consumer directly, which can be especially important during the early days of a fashion brand. When you operate your own e-commerce channel, “you get a lot of feedback, which is a great way to gauge what the market is before you get into a larger wholesale front,” Christopher added.


Today, building on its online presence, Company of We is found in retail stores around the world, including cult favorites like New York’s Oak LA’s Fred Segal, as well as big name department stores like United Arrow, Holt Renfrew, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Their profit margin is just below 40 percent and their product never goes on sale.


With an accessories line coming soon and a possible expansion into womenswear on the horizon, things are looking bright. But while they now make more money offline than online, they continue to emphasise the importance of e-commerce: “We always want to maintain a strong presence [online]. It was the heart of our company.”


Elizabeth Peng, an M.A. student in Fashion Journalism at Central St Martins, is an editorial intern at The Business of Fashion.


Elie Saab

"Elie Saab loves La Fenice, Venice's legendary opera house. As its name would suggest, this phoenix has burned to the ground and risen from the flames three times. For his Fall Couture collection, Saab borrowed the ruched velvet of La Fenice's curtains, the gilt and blue of its decoration, and even the fire and ash of its hellish moments for one multicolored mousseline gown. Given that backstory, the result was understandably a little overwrought.


Before the show, Saab said, 'If a woman doesn't want 'rich,' she doesn't come to couture.' So rich was what he gave her, from the moment Karolina Kurkova sashayed out onto the catwalk in a gown of deep red guipure lace swathed in silk tulle. The dress that followed her was short but scarcely simpler, with its bands of chiffon and lace liberally doused with sequins.


The designer claimed he was breaking some personal ground with his focus on classical draping. There was lots of asymmetric single-shoulder action, and he was also keen to pay more attention to the back of his dresses. That's where the décolleté was this season, which often left the front decorously covered up to the throat. Put that together with the color scheme; the broad-shouldered, bat-winged proportions; and the embellishment of the fabrics, and the collection felt heavy, even slightly old-fashioned. Saab is a proven master of red-carpet dressing, but these clothes sometimes made one wonder in exactly what decade that carpet was being unrolled.
—Tim Blanks"

"Best 2K I Ever Spent!" We Built This Country On Secrets, Baby

These pool party guests are so pretty and lively and tipsy and fun! And yet the celebrants look like they've got secrets lurking behind those perfectly tanned faces.




She's with him for the money. She's secretly in love with a banjo player from Des Moines.




Inside, he's a delicate flower, painfully insecure.




Everyone slept with everyone else's moms.




She's a femme fatale, and that bikini is her ticket to wealth and influence.




She works nights as a Rumer Willis impersonator. And sometimes as a stripper. She's very good at both jobs.




They're out to rob this place blind.




NARC.




She's twelve years old.




She has no secrets. Everything is surface.




Hiding from the FBI. Because she steals babies.




Despite his buffoonish exterior, he's a certified genius with four PhDs and a charity that helps children with harelips.




There's a girl behind that bush.


[All photos courtesy of The Cobra-Snake]


"

Valentino

"Couture embraces worlds. The day that began with Elie Saab's stolid womanliness ended with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's reconceptualization of Val's gal as a dolly bird—all short skirt, dropped waist, baby doll, and kitten heels. The mood was compounded by the name the designers gave their collection: The Dark Side of First Love. If that notion has a Lolita tinge, Chiuri and Piccioli made the clothes to match. They even dropped a cage over one girl to let you know she was trapped.


Teen psychodrama may fit with the kind of 'dark side' idea they've sometimes toyed with in the past, but it was downright peculiar in a couture context. Still, as a pitch to a much younger customer (and those girls were out in force in the front row today), the collection was a major success on its own terms: haute couture for the Twilight generation. From the little black dresses in gazar that opened the show to a trapeze coat in ivory crepe that tied with bows down its front to the tiers of ecru lace trimmed with feathers, the clothes had the spirited dressiness that you see now in Valli's gals, for instance. They weren't saccharine, either—that dark side lurked in the black gazar sheath that underpinned a sheer dress trimmed in huge organza flowers or a baby doll in ruffled tiers of powder pink.


And look closely and it was plain to see that Chiuri and Piccioli had done their research on classic couture shapes, however abbreviated they might be here. But that will be scant consolation to mournful clients of the ancien régime.
—Tim Blanks"

Jean Paul Gaultier

"The key to Jean Paul Gaultier's latest collection could be found in the opening and closing outfits of his show. First up, a reconfigured trenchcoat in black gabardine. Last out, the same idea in white silk (worn by a bride who played herself down the runway—literally—with a violin). The trench is Gaultier's signature piece. The fact his latest show was bracketed by it suggested the collection was about him this time: not Mexico or Hollywood or Mars or anywhere else he might have been recently. Being the most Parisian of French fashion designers, that gave him a lot to work with. Being Jean Paul Gaultier gave him even more. So it was a crying shame the show didn't ultimately offer the thrills he once provided so routinely we almost came to take them for granted.


It started auspiciously enough, with Karlie Kloss in that trench, reconfigured with batwings (despite the Brides of Dracula gear later in the show, this was less vampire chic than an evocation of the glamorous heyday of Parisian haute couture). The pinstripe tailleur that followed, swathed in a huge silver fox, was a reminder of Gaultier's mastery of the masculine/feminine hybrid. The jacket with black mink cone breasts (and a butt to match) also revived an iconic moment in the designer's career. He exaggerated the silhouette of a biker jacket, then trimmed it with badger fur to give it a halo. That was clever. But he went on to use the same trick a few too many times, which left an impression of peculiar proportions. Same with the batwing shape, which turned to draggy droop at the drop of a hat.


Perhaps it wasn't so surprising, given Gaultier's stint at Hermès, that the most appealing pieces in the show were the most luxuriously simple: a twinset of cashmere cardigan coat and vest; an elegant black dress that was basically just a long silk cardigan reversed; an asymmetric evening gown of black jersey with a gusset of gold running down one side.


A long tweed and ostrich feather skirt paired with an asymmetric top in pleated black leather generated a round of audience applause, but not nearly as rousing as the one that greeted Dita Von Teese, on hand to publicize Gaultier's lingerie for La Perla the way she knows best. She managed to moon the audience twice.
—Tim Blanks"

Eavesdropping In: Advice From Tourists. Get Yer Lighthouses! Is Bull Moose Bigoted?


  • Lindsay Lohan. Twitter. Sigh. [Post]

  • Mel Gibson, if you punch a lady in the face, don't tell her that she deserved it, because she's probably recording you. This goes for everyone else, too. [NYDN]

  • Buy a lighthouse! Impress your friends! [WSJ]

  • Tourists teach us how to stay cool. Like we need your advice, tourists. Stop photographing our full-face tattoos. [NYT]

  • So why did the Bull Moose Saloon abruptly go all anti-gay? [Voice]


"

Are You Hipster Enough? …Are You SURE?

We're a little worried about the Guest of a Guest readership. We're honestly not sure you guys are QUITE hipster enough. So we'd like to direct you to a website that will hopefully help you out a bit. You're welcome.-


Everyone knows that what separates a true hipster from a charlatan in hipster clothing (read: a prepster in a hoodie) is a carefully cultivated taste in random and obscure music. In order to successfully pass yourself off as a hipster, you've got to namedrop music with the best of them; you have to START liking a band before anyone else, and you have to STOP liking them once everyone else catches on.


Thank got for mixest.com.


This website is sort of like our beloved Pandora; it plays music, except you can click "More Obscure" instead of "Next", if they happen to play a song you've heard before (gross!).


For instance, this morning, after clicking "More Obscure" a few times, we listened to a song called Jesen U Meni, by Parni Valjak.



    Sample Lyrics: Ptice u bijegu/ Tisina gradi zidove/ Zvoni zbogom/ Rijeci kazne Bozije


    Try bringing THAT up at McLaren Park!



    "

    Twitteriffic Tweets: Lady Gaga And What Will Become Of The Vuvuzela

    Twitteriffic Tweets: Lady Gaga And What Will Become Of The Vuvuzela: "

    @nickkroll In my next life I'm coming back as a vuvuzela so I can be really annoying and still get blown constantly.

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    @PeterDavisNYC my brother is going to @ladygaga tonight. he hates her, i love her. he's straight, i'm gay. go figure.



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    @SMYLIFE All the artists delivering and setting up their work at ArtHampton - opening part tomorrow night http://twitpic.com/23bgo3

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    @asiddy busy night ahead for @shellbelle252 and I! grace list oyster and champagne tasting & @2AMclub concert. ooh, la la.

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    @bevyjreyes In Berlin about to watch the Germany game. Converse party. #skaters #friends #football #fun


    @nedhepburn Not Getting Engaged Party: http://o.imm.io/RO0.jpg

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    @Sn00ki Almost to the city! Can't wait to relax and get outta this heat my hair is exhausted ;)

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    @NicRad Personally I would like to see Lebron freelance for a while


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    @CarsonGriffith Love how my trainer texts me. Do not love how i just ate a hot dog w @cbmill for her bday. Will not be telling him that.

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    "

    Mikka So Glamorous!

    Mikka So Glamorous!: "I’m very sure that my job is almost as hazardous as those circus crew whose tent repeatedly collapsed. We have to choose products that is worthy to be recommended for you and in the process of writing each of those kind of products, we’re most likely also clicking the send button on our email to [...]"

    Celebrity Style: Drew Barrymore

    "Vote for your favorite looks from the Hollywood style star"

    Drew Barrymore’s Hairstyles

    Drew Barrymore’s Hairstyles: "Vote for the Hollywood megastar’s best dos through the years"

    "Chair" Fans Beware: Ed Westwick Spotted Filming With Clemence Poesy

    "Chair" Fans Beware: Ed Westwick Spotted Filming With Clemence Poesy: "

    Can it be true? Has Chuck Bass found another long-term lady love to heal his aching … ahem, heart post-Blair breakup?! Follow the jump at your own risk …


    As we reported, Clemence Poesy (or, as she will henceforth be referred to, Pesty) has been cast as Eva, a French-born love interest for Gossip Girl's Chuck Bass (Ed Westwick).


    The new girl comes in guilty until proven innocent, as the show has a strong fan base pulling for Chuck and (sob) now-ex girlfriend Blair (played by Leighton Meester) to romantically reunite.


    The duo has been spotted filming in Paris for what's sure to be a dramatic season four debut (cast mates Blair and Serena are also on location in the French capital — INTRIGUE).


    What follows is an assortment of on-set photos, as well as real live actual on-set narration and facts that we totally made up based upon our love for Chuck + Blair (Chair) 4eaeae and our totally Gossip Girl-appropriate premature judgment of this Pesty character.



    Here is our brave soldier. Lost, looking mysteriously into the distance (and, thankfully, alive after last season's near-death finale). Chuck's lack of flamboyant pastels and floral print and fashion choices of Justin Bobby-esque boots and a vest are clear signs of his spiral into depression, darkness, destruction .. other D words.




    And here comes our new arch-nemesis, Eva, aptly named (obviously deliberately) to rhyme with EVIL.




    What a weasel.


    Blair Waldorf would never wear three different shades of camel in one outfit (I am not lying — check it out, shoes, bag, coat), further marking Chuck's deterioration.




    Chuck knows better! He learned his lesson(s) last season, and the sex workers are bountiful and delightfully English-illiterate in Paris! But then the Wicked Witch Lookalike-of-Kate-Moss/Kate-Hudson-Plus-30-Years whispers in his ear, and The Great Chuck Bass falls into temptation.




    The evil one is smug, with her multiple shades of tan and sub-par blonde hair (surely reason enough for Serena to join Blair on the Eva-hate train).




    Under her droopy-haired, no-makeup-wearing, evil Frenchie spell, Chuck follows Eva around like a sad, lost puppy, scratching his head at vague memories of shining brunette curls and a love affair with someone named Nate, until …



    "Gotcha, bitch."


    Producers step in, realizing that Chuck+Blair=Love/RATINGS, use a Magical Pimp Cane to restore Chuck to his former dapper self and either employ one of those Men In Black mind-eraser-thingies to restore order or play it all out as a practical joke on Evil Pesty.


    At least, that's what we envision happening. Because we can't imagine a more realistic scenario under which Chuck Bass should ever, ever develop a legitimate love interest other than Blair Waldorf. Come back to the light, Chuck!


    (All this and the season doesn't even premiere until September 13. Help.)





    [Photos via Just Jared and Zimbio]

    SPUN: DJing in Blaynista Style


    Go HERE for more pictures by BLAINE WINS and tag yourself and your friends!


    Despite the 100 plus degree heat yesterday, people still went out to enjoy a night of being their own DJ and an open bar at the Foundation. In addition to being able to spin your own beats (with assistance by a professional DJ if needed), there were complementary liquor popsicles to cool people off and get them drunk at the same time.-


    Every Tuesday night of the summer, the Lower East Side bar throws it's free party Spun. Aspiring DJs get to take center stage at the DJ booth for ten to fifteen minutes. Zandile Blay (owner of fashion magazine Blaynista, fashion market editor for Paper Magazine, and style columnist for the Huffington Post) hosted this week's party. Her style consciousness was shared by the guests throughout the party.


    Hipster trends were most popular. Thick, black, plastic glasses that are Wayfarer-esq, guys in tight tanks and are not really unisex but just girl tops, skinny ties and fedora hats, and loose 80s crop tops. Skinny guys and girls who don't smile at the camera also followed suit for the hipster-ish crowd. Of course there were some people who didn't follow this look but opted for the "mainstream" trends like floral tops, printed dresses, and classic jeans or shorts with a top. Whether dressed to be different from or in-style with the trends, anyone and everyone could be a DJ at Spun last night.