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8/31/2010

Emmy Fashion: Red Carpet Hits and Misses

Kyra Sedgwick, shown in Monique Lhuillier, won an Emmy for her leading role in 'The Closer.'


The 62nd Primetime Emmy Awards were satisfying on so many levels: Jimmy Fallon rocked as host; some of our favorite actors like Edie Falco, Jane Lynch and Kyra Sedgwick took home gold statuettes; and the fashion parade on the red carpet didn’t disappoint.


Glee force of nature Lynch glammed up nicely, trading in her Sue Sylvester tracksuit for an elegant eggplant Ali Rahimi gown, a diamond brooch on its one shoulder. She and Falco (Nurse Jackie), who picked up her fourth Emmy in a flattering black Bottega Veneta, were two of many sporting the single-shoulder style. Others included Wanda Sykes, Carrie Ann Inaba, Cheryl Hines in a silvery Zac Posen, Jane Krakowski in a deep blue Escada and Eva La Rue in a shimmery cutout Oday Shakar.


Sedgwick, accepting her The Closer Emmy in a strapless burgundy Monique Lhuillier, had plenty of company in the shoulder-baring brigade. Mariska Hargitay was a knockout in a creamy Vera Wang with a flowing train, Damages nominee Glenn Close was radiant in a Rubin Singer gown in a color she called “metallic olive,” and Modern Family nominee Sofia Vergara dazzled in a yellow Carolina Herrera with metallic beading. Her castmate Julie Bowen was smashing in a ruffled black silk J. Mendel.


Eva Longoria Parker accessorized her stunning black strapless Robert Rodriguez with eye-catching chandelier earrings from Loren Jewels, and Top Chef’s Padma Lakshmi embellished her navy Carolina Herrera with a tribal necklace from her own line. Connie Britton (Friday Night Lights) also chose navy, while Brooke Burke (Dancing With the Stars, She’s Got the Look) wore a white gown that accented every curve.


Black sequins were the bling of choice for Susan Sarandon, in Donna Karan, Archie Panjabi, Supporting Actress winner for The Good Wife, in Tadashi Shoji, and Paula Abdul, while red was the color for Glee’s Jessalyn Gilsig, in a ruffled strapless Nicole Miller, and Maura Tierney, in a lacy vintage tomato-hued gown from The Way We Wore. Good Wife Julianna Margulies lost to Sedgwick but looked like a winner in a body-hugging navy sequined L’Wren Scott.


Alas, armies of stylists couldn’t prevent some stars from making fashion faux pas. While we adore Lauren Graham, we don’t know why she chose a blouson-topped Yigal Azrouël gown that camouflaged her figure. We didn’t care for Jewel’s fussy Zuhair Murad, Tina Fey’s beaded Oscar de la Renta or Toni Collette’s gray Valentino — from a distance, its hemline print made it seem like she had stepped in mud.


Also on our miss list were Kristen Wiig’s too-busy print, Lily Tomlin’s zebra-print top and Mad Men nominee Christina Hendricks, whose feathered lilac Zac Posen accentuated her curves but was the wrong color for the redheaded star.


Uncharacteristically, fashion maven Heidi Klum is on our worst-dressed list too — her Marchesa mini was way too short, more suited for the MTV Awards than the Emmys. All we can think of is she needed an excuse to show off her Christian Louboutin stilettos. Talk about killer shoes!


For more behind-the-scenes intel, check out VIVmag’s Emmy Awards Special Issue. Whose Emmy look did you love?


Photo credit: Mathew Imaging/WireImage

Kate Moss and Topshop part ways, Gucci’s digital flagship, Bulgari recovers, Boss sales rebound, Kolkata fashion weeks clash

Kate Moss for Topshop, Autumn 2009 | Source: Topshop


Kate Moss and Topshop to end design deal (BBC)

“A three-year design partnership between Kate Moss and Topshop is to end later this year. When the supermodel unveils her autumn and winter range in October – it will be her 14th and last collection for the chain.”


Gucci opens its new luxury digital flagship store (Fashion and Runway)

“Following an 18 month architectural renovation under the direction of Gucci Creative Director Frida Giannini, the new online retail destination takes advantage of the most innovative technologies available today.”


Bulgari Recovers Its Luster (Wall Street Journal)

“Though jewelry lies at the heart of Bulgari’s business, Mr. Trapani’s decision to diversify into watches, perfumes and accessories over the past 20 years has “radically changed” the company he joined in 1981, he says. These lines now account for almost 50% of the company’s sales.”


Hugo Boss Sees Sales Rebound (Bloomberg)

“Hugo Boss AG’s sales rebound will gather pace in the second half of 2010 as its U.S. business benefits from a shift by customers toward less-expensive luxury items, according to Chief Financial Officer Mark Langer.”


It is Gandhi-wear vs bridal-wear in Kolkata (Times of India)

“With one paying tribute to Mahatma Gandhi’s simple dressing style and another showcasing lavish bridal wear, the city is set for a double delight this September as two fashion weeks clash on the same date.”

Quotable | Tomas Maier on his new ‘smart design’ collection for H&M?

Quotable | Tomas Maier on his new ‘smart design’ collection for H&M?: "


Smart women are so beautiful. I think they are the most beautiful to me. I also think that men and women that are very comfortable within their own skin are gorgeous.”


What appears to be Tomas Maier, Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, speaking in a YouTube video posted by H&M to tease the brand’s Facebook followers in advance of the announcement of H&M’s next designer collaboration on September 9th, 2010.

The Emmys Rundown

The 62nd annual Primetime Emmy Awards opened with a Glee-inspired performance of Bruce Springsteen's 'Born to Run' starring host Jimmy Fallon as the Boss and a who's who of the evening's nominees, including Tina Fey, Lea Michele, Jane Lynch, and the dirty-dancing duo of Jon Hamm and Betty White (the year's by-now ubiquitous mascot). As Fallon—who soon swapped his blue-collar Springsteen drag for Tom Ford—put it, "It's been a phenomenal year in TV." The ceremony itself moved along fairly snappily—we especially appreciated the slug at the bottom of the screen announcing "George Clooney in 17 minutes.'


But if the relatively brisk pace was refreshing, the evening's fashions stuck to the contemporary awards-show script. One-shoulder gowns, as usual, were popular choices. Edie Falco's was Bottega Veneta and Joan Allen's was Michael Kors. Asymmetrical necklines weren't quite as prevalent as strapless ones, though, which turned up on Heidi Klum (seriously short Marchesa) and Claire Danes (sparkling Armani Privé). And so what if bared shoulders are predictable? We're betting any audience appreciation award would've gone to Sofia Vergara's buttercup yellow Carolina Herrera bustier dress (though Christina Hendricks' décolleté-baring Zac Posen might have been a close second).

Still, there were some risk takers. January Jones chose an electric blue Atelier Versace with cone-shaped bra cups; Tina Fey opted for jet embroidered Oscar de la Renta; Rita Wilson went with a Prada runway dress dripping in clear crystals; and Anna Paquin wore an Alexander McQueen black gown from Resort with bold gold shoulder embellishments. It had NBC’s commentators comparing her unfavorably to a matador—but really, what do they know? It brought some welcome edge to the red carpet.

Less edgy but indisputably chic was Julianna Margulies in a navy sequined L'Wren Scott tank dress. The Good Wife star also had the good fortune to receive a peck on the cheek from Clooney as she presented him with his Bob Hope Humanitarian Award, so we're calling it: She may have lost out to Kyra Sedgwick for Outstanding Lead Actress in a Drama Series, but Margulies had the best night overall.


—Nicole Phelps

Not-So-Little Pony

"When Richard Mortimer throws a party, there is no choice—you just have to come, don't you?" said Erdem Moralioglu. Most of his London designer comrades—and a generous helping of club kids of all persuasions—certainly think so. Mortimer is something of a legend in the local club scene for his dearly departed Boombox party, of course. Those days have come and gone, but Mortimer's second act, as editor of the online fashion mag Ponystep, fortuitously comes with ample opportunities for revelry. Ponystep's parties tend to take place in Paris, but for one night, Mortimer repatriated them—to the Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen in East London, the old stomping grounds of Boombox, no less—for a very special event: his 30th birthday.


Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Kinder Aggugini, and Sophia Kokosalaki were among the designers who stopped by to wish the birthday boy well (and to blow off a little steam before London fashion week). Gareth Pugh and Jefferson Hack alternated sets on the decks, and the winsome Florrie Arnold—face of Nina Ricci's relaunched L'Elixir—performed a few songs, too.

Mortimer's mates were toting masks with his face on them, and as you'd expect from London's party set, the maquillage on some of the guests was a sight to behold in itself. 'In Paris, they are just so happy to have a party to go to,' Mortimer said appreciatively when we tracked him down (we're pretty sure it was him and not a masked impostor). 'Here, they really expect something nuts and out of control each time. They are the professional kind of party people, this lot, so I constantly have to raise the bar to keep them happy.' As if on cue, the proof of a great party appeared: the cops at the door, trying to bring the noise and crowds under control. As if.


—Afsun Qureshi

Confirmed: Corinne Day Passed Away Yesterday

Twitter was abuzz this weekend with news of the death of famous British photographer Corinne Day, who’s credited with launching Kate Moss‘ career on the pages of The Face in 1990. The news was posted on Elite London’s blog on Saturday.

Day had been battling a brain tumor for over a year.

However, soon after fans began sending their condolences via the Web, others started disputing the claim. And no major news outlets have been able to confirm the news.

Update: According to a source close to Day, she passed yesterday at 5pm GMT. Our thoughts are with her family and friends. Her images shaped a fashion generation.

Step Right Up and Get Your YSL Palais Pumps!


YSL’s amazing fall shoe, the palais pump is finally in stores. Which color is right for you?

Ralph Rucci Canceled His Runway Show–Should Others Follow?

American couturier Ralph Rucci won’t put on on runway show this upcoming fashion week. Instead, he’s taking private appointments for editors and buyers.

Rucci’s reasoning has to do with the extended medical leave of his president, Vivian Van Natta. He’ll save about $500,000 by meeting with interested parties one-on-one.

We hope other designers will follow suit. While nothing beats the runway when it comes to creating excitement and buzz around a brand, less-outlandish designers benefit from showing off the high quality of their clothes up-close. Rucci’s pieces are nearly couture-level, and those who want to buy a piece–or ten–will be able to easily examine the items without the hassle of a big production.

Designer Lyn Devon–who much like Rucci, boasts a sizable made-to-order business–has been using this approach for years. Each editor/buyer gets a few minutes with the designer during her day or two of appointments. I’ve become a huge fan of Lyn and her clothes during these quick meetings–I already liked the designs, but to be able to see what she likes best and what she’s most proud of has made me appreciate the brand even more.

So we praise Rucci for his choice, and hope that those facing a similar situation will forget about norms and do what’s best for them, whether that means a runway show, a presentation, or private appointments.

Fashion News Round-Up: Kate Moss To Leave Topshop, Target at Gilt Glitch, and Tomas Maier Rumored To Do H&M Collab

Kate Moss and Topshop Break Up: Kate Moss’s 14th collection for Topshop this October will be her last. Since it was recently announced that Sir Phillip Green’s 19-year-old daughter Chloe has started training with the company, rumors have started swirling that she’ll replace Moss as the face of Topshop. There are also reports that was not an amicable one. {Daily Mail}

Target Craze Catches Gilt Off-Guard: Some shoppers weren’t able to get their Target from Gilt. It’s unclear at this point whether Gilt oversold the Target merch (which included Mulberry, Tucker and John Derian for Target), but they’re offering shoppers who were unable to get their goods a $25 credit. {Racked}

Tomas Maier for H&M?:
Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier is rumored to be the next designer to collaborate with H&M. The brand has released two ambiguous videos to build hype around their next two collaborations. The grand reveal is on September 9th. Thoughts on the mysterious lady designer? Carolina? Vivian Westwood? Who could it be? {fashionologie}

No Picket Lines at NYFW: IMG Fashion and Local One of the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees have reached a settlement. Now the only lines you’ll have to contend with are the ones to get into the shows. {WWD subscription required}

Best Dressed: The Emmys

Last night at the 62nd Annual Primetime Emmy Awards, we favored risk-taking and bright colors over all the dull black and navy that populated the red carpet. We have January Jones in Versace Atelier, Keri Russell in vintage Jean-Louis Scherrer Haute Couture, Emily Blunt in Dior, Anna Paquin in McQueen, and Betty White in a bold watercolor printed number.

Jessica Simpson Will Host a Spring 2011 Presentation at Her Showroom Right Before Fashion Week

This time around, Jessica Simpson is taking jeans seriously. The celeb is relaunching her denim label this autumn, and will host an informal party/Spring 2011 presentation in New York a few days before Fashion Week.

Our source tell us that instead of using models, the singer/actress/personality has enlisted some of her best mates–including CaCee Cobb and sister Ashlee–to show off the new styles, which include denim and other pieces from her main collection, sold at department stores like Macy’s.

Simpson is going to personally style the girls, so it should make for an interesting evening. Think of it as something light and not too serious–like the woman herself–before the fashion week madness begins.

Istanbul Fashion Week: The Best of the Rest


Istanbul Fashion Week has come to an end. For a new fashion week (this is only their third season), Istanbul put on quite a show, capping off the week with supermodel Alessandro Ambrosio, who flew in the night before to walk in the Koton swimwear show.

Istanbul is home to around 15 million people. It’s a vibrant, chaotic and beautiful place, and I quickly learned that getting around is not as simple as hopping on the tram, or jumping in a cab and giving your driver a street address. Directions are much more vague in Istanbul–ancient mosques, old stone doors, and even “down around the hill” are markers. So it was merely a reflection of the city, that the scene at the Taskisla Building at Istanbtul Techinical University, the venue for Istanbul Fashion Week, was a bit chaotic and difficult to navigate as well. But in spite of the chaos, or because of it, Istanbul Fashion Week was a blast. The shows were inventive, and the designers put out inspired collections.

A big thank you to ELLE Turkey and itkib Istanbul for hosting me.

I could write for days about everything I saw–both at Istanbul Fashion Week and the sites I explored in the city itself. But I won’t. Here’s the best of the rest:

Sally’s Styling Seminary: A Stylist’s Most Important Tool? Her Database

Every stylist needs a contact database to keep track of everyone, include the designers’ PR firm (for samples), studio services and boutiques (for pulls), and creative teams (for brainstorming). A contact database organizes and holds a stylist’s trusted network. Styling has its share of fashion emergencies (“I need a Dolce dress for a cover shoot in eight hours?! WHAT?!”), which means a stylist worth his/her day rate must keep a very resourceful and updated database.

Over the years, I have seen contact databases in many forms. Marie Amelie Sauve kept her “database” in a Hermes agenda when I was assisting her. In 2007 when I was at Pop Magazine, all of the editors kept track of their contacts via Blackberries synced with their iMacs. Nowadays, I prefer to keep my database in a Mobile Me account that syncs with my iPhone, iPad and MacBook (yes, I am a Mac nerd). Keeping my database in an account like Mobile Me or Gmail allows my trusted assistants to access and update my contacts from any web browser. I recommend keeping a stylist’s database electronically that can be backed up because even the best of us have suffered a lost address book. It can take weeks, months, and sometimes years to gather all of the information again from scratch.

A thorough database includes the following contacts by name, company, work phone, mobile phone, email, address, and notes (titles, agents, assistants, birthdays, other important applicable info) in every city and country the stylist works:

I-Ella.com is Hiring Interns!

I-ELLA.com, a unique invitation-only marketplace where you can edit your wardrobe and shop celebrity closets while supporting social change is seeking two Fashion Interns and one Photography/ Graphic Design Intern. An internship with I-ELLA means exciting hands on experience with a small team in a fun start-up environment.

Availability: FULL-TIME / PART-TIME / INTERNSHIPS

Openings: 3 Internships, 1 Full-Time or Part-Time

Location: New York City

Fashion Intern Responsibilities: (Two Positions)
- Pick up merchandise from celebrities and fashion industry insiders
- Assist on photo shoots
- Create story and inspiration boards
- Assist entire staff with general administrative duties
- Work on special projects for fashion week
- Maintain inventory list of merchandise
- Responsible for care of designer samples and organizing the fashion closet

Photography/ Graphic Design Intern Responsibilities: (One Position)

- Photograph merchandise for website
- Edit/ re-touch images post photo shoots
- Create marketing collateral (email blasts, invitations, etc.)
- Experience with Adobe Creative Suite
- Photoshop wiz

Pay: Based on Experience

Requirements:
- Undergraduate/ Graduate with a 3.0+ GPA from a top school
- Magazine, fashion, on-line retail, dotcom or startup experience preferred
- Self- motivated, passionate, organized, detail oriented, ability to multi-task, up-beat, willing to perform even small tasks, ability to work independently, available to attend industry events and work long hours when necessary

Please send cover letter, resume and portfolio (if applicable) to: mycareer@i-ella.com.

More on the DVF X HP Fashion’s Night Out Event

A couple of weeks ago, we mentioned that Diane Von Furstenberg is collaborating with HP on a Fashion’s Night Out event to be held at her Meatpacking District studio. Guests will be able to play with fancy new HP technology as well as a photo booth where participants can pose in DVF looks and print the images on wireless printers.

We’ve already touched on the trend of tech companies trying to target girls and this isn’t the first step HP has taken to build a presence within the fashion world. Last year, the computer makers collaborated on a laptop with Vivienne Tam, which debuted in her Spring 2010 runway show. In March, Project Runway contestants were challenged to create fabric patterns on HP computers and turn them into actual garments. Tam guest judged. HP also did a collaboration with Sex and the City 2.

Furstenberg isn’t typically big on collaborations, but we think it would be interesting and not so surprising if a DVF-designed HP laptop came out of this event.

We got our hands on images of some of the interactive content that you’ll find at the event and a rendering of the “HP Experience Lounge.” Looks futuristic.

Mad Men Style Recap, Episode 6

Last night’s Mad Men pondered the age-old question: how to succeed in business without really trying? The answer seems to be get blackout drunk and hire someone young and probably unqualified to do your job for you. Roger does it with Don, just as Don hires Danny after drunkenly blurting out his tagline to Life Cereal.

The real loser of this game, other than talent, is Peggy. Peggy has been doing the legwork behind Don’s “brilliance” and getting no credit for far too long. She’s booted from attending the Clios because everyone wants to hold Joan’s hand under the table, and later stuck brainstorming in a hotel room with SCDP’s new, faux-radical art director, Stan Rizzo, of the leather jacket and long-sleeved polo shirt club. I swear that outfit was stolen verbatim from Fez on That ’70s Show. But Peggy’s attempt to correct the corruption only results in nepotism: Jane’s idiot cousin gets a job.

Luckily for Peggy, however, her wardrobe this episode is that of a winner. Her black and tan short sleeved dress looks expensive, professional, and young. Her hair is pinned back on the sides with sparkly clips–business in the front, party in the back–although Peggy’s partying ability is in question. When she gets naked for Stan, it’s all business, and even when she jets downtown to hang out with the “cool kids” two episodes ago, she can’t help but mention her job. She cares so much she arrives at Don’s apartment Sunday night in an adorable cyan jacket with floral collar to stand up for justice and defend Danny’s tagline. By the end of the episode Peggy feels accomplished, wearing a bright blue suit and brown and white patterned blouse, but we’ll see if her plan plays out in the next episode.

Now onto someone whose partying ability is not in question: Don Draper.

After being moderately sober last week, Don wins an award for his Glo Coat commercial and goes completely wild. He’s drunk at the ceremony, drunk at the Life Cereal meeting, drunk at the after party, drunk in bed with the jingle writer, and presumably still drunk when he wakes up with a uniform-wearing Doris. Considering that this episode of Mad Men coincided with the Emmys (where Mad Men was sure to take home some statues), one can’t help but wonder is this is how the Mad Men staff celebrates.

Despite his drunkeness, Don’s wardrobe has continued on its turn for the better. His slim blue suit and tie are young and progressive, not like the stuffy black suits he usually dons. He looks picture perfect sitting at the Clios next to Joan, who looks stunning in a pink and lilac patterned form-fitting dress, and beside Pete, who looks dapper in a black suit and black and white diagonally striped tie. Roger, as usual, is in three piece black. Also at the Clios are Duck Phillips, drunker than ever in a light blue suit, and Ken Cosgrove, in one of his many brown suits.

As the post awards party rages on, Don mistakenly tries to hit on Faye. Even though Faye looks like a glittery ornament from a drag queen’s funeral (she’s in a shiny-topped black dress with a fabric and bead necklace and black dangly earrings), she’s still too classy become another notch on Don’s bedpost. Don gets over it quickly as a jingle writer appears in a black sleeved dress with multi-colored flowers and green bead necklaces to tickle his fancy. He may fall asleep to the tune of “The Star Spangled Banner,” but he wakes up to the tune of his phone ringing off the hook as angry Betty berates him and Doris lays beside him in bed. Betty appeared only for a few seconds this episode, but it was just enough time for us to see her looking positively icy in a white suit with light blue criss-cross trim and enough pearls to sink a ship. Janie Bryant is really putting the emphasis on Betty’s cold personality this season, the only time she wears a warm color is on Christmas.

While the present on Mad Men is troubled, the past was so bright.

In this episode’s welcome flashbacks, we see Don and Roger meeting for the first time. Don, a goofy looking fur salesman, wears a grey double breasted suit and orange tie, and Roger is seen without a vest in a black pinstripe suit. Don has the aspiration that Danny has at the episode’s start (Danny’s name being so close to Don is no coincidence), and will do anything to have a meeting with Roger, even if it means sending his portfolio along with Roger’s mink. Bringing us to Joan. Joan is sultry, and mind-bogglingly seductive in a black, crystal strapped negligée and red nailpolish, sitting coquettishly on Roger’s bed. Seductress Joan has been absent after marrying Dr. Harris, only turning on her powers for special occasions.

After Don’s misstep with Roger, he arrives in the Sterling Cooper office to attempt to reconcile his chances with Roger. Roger wears a navy suit and coat, and Don looks perfectly wide-eyed in light colors, a camel coat, grey suit, and green paisley tie. Ultimately Roger hires Don in his drunkenness, or Don convinces Roger that he did, and that’s where the Mad Men story begins.

With all the flashbacks and meta references I’m going to have to put the analytical part of my brain that died with Lost back to work on Mad Men. Let’s only hope Mad Men doesn’t end on a flat note, but with all the scotch in SCDP office, I don’t see anything but high times ahead.

Street Style: Happy Birthday to Charlotte!

Name: Charlotte

Occupation: Student

How old are you? I’m 19. Today is actually my birthday!

Where are you from originally? Australia

What do you study?
Medicine

How would you describe your look?
I’d say it’s a bit of everything, lots of vintage and thrift store finds. I like unusual things, I wouldn’t say I have a particular look.

What is your favorite thing about New York?
The people. Everyone here has really been so kind and friendly to me.

What is the last good movie you saw? The Runaways. I especially liked watching Dakota Fanning in a sort-of adult role, as I’m so used to seeing her in kiddie films.

What is your current favorite song? “Home” by Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros

What is your favorite desert?
Anything chocolate!

Where is your blazer from?
A charity shop in Australia.

Where is your romper from? Beacon’s Closet

How about your bag and rings? I got these at the Brooklyn Flea market.

And your bag? It’s from a vintage shop in Melbourne.

**All photos by Ashley Jahncke.

Question for Neimen Marcus: Are these A+O Pants Supposed to Have a Hole In The Crotch?

A reader was bewildered by these Alice + Olivia Navajo Fringe Cardigan & Ponte-Leather Leggings on the Neiman Marcus site. We can understand why. There’s a hole in the crotch. Zoom in and it’s impossible to miss. It sort of looks like a pee hole.

We figure the pants are just torn and this is a fluke photo error, but the description does say that there is “distressed detail on inner leg.” You can wear them with your period panties and fart patches.

Thoughts?

Pre-Fashion Week Mad-Libs: Costello Tagliapietra

Fashion week is less than two weeks away and so our Pre-Fashion Week Mad-Libs begin. For this season’s inaugural questionnaire, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra profess their love of hamburgers and donuts.