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9/08/2010

AHALife: A Lifestyle Site for Fashion People, Curated by the Likes of DvF and Gilles Bensimon

I love products. Not just shoes and bags and dresses, but products. My significant other and I together own about six Apple computers, an iPad, four iPhones (we’re trying to sell the old ones, if you’re interested!), as well as a million weird little knickknacks, from a carved wooden image we picked up in Japan to several Smorkin’ Labbits. We like stuff.

But I must admit, there aren’t many sites out on the Web that carry such stuff, whether it’s the wood block LED alarm clock we recently put on our registry or a very, very specific lavender oil my future mother-in-law has been bugging us to unearth. In fact, sites that do carry such cool finds aren’t comprehensive, or they’re not well-designed, or worse, they refuse to ship internationally. (Let me put it this way: There’s a reason we’re doing an Amazon universal registry instead of pick stuff out at Bed, Bath, and Beyond.)


Enter AHALife. Founder Shauna Mei wants to create an online space where you can learn about new products–hand-picked by 80-some curators, including Diane von Furstenberg and Tim Gunn–and maybe even buy something. Mei, a former business consultant for fashion labels, came up with the idea while living in Europe. “I noticed that there were very few e-commerce sites targeted towards the aesthetic consumer–the busy, savvy, in-the-know woman or man–who loves fashion but is not a slave to fashion,” she explains. While sites like Net-a-Porter made it easy to shop for clothes and accessories, what about furniture, art, home goods?


The major twist: Unlike most e-commerce sites, the products are made-to-order, limited edition, or otherwise difficult-to-find. And one new product is introduced daily. (Although they live on the site for seven days.)


Mei believes the easiest way to sell something is to tell its story. Which means she’s brought in a crack editorial team, headed up by fashion journalist Lauren David Peden, who serves at the site’s editorial director. Gilles Bensimon is its creative director, while former Style.com-er Nancy MacDonell is a contributor. Featured items will include everything from artisanal foods to scarves to desk lamps. But each is promised to be special.


Another element: Mei and Peden’s workspace, an industrial loft in downtown Manhattan, doubles as a product showroom. A display space for items featured on the site, the showroom also serves as a place for buyers and industry insiders to check out new products, some of which have never before been available in the US.


AHALife officially launches later on this month, but Fashionista readers get early access. Click here to check it out.

‘A Current Affair’ Brings Extreme Vintage to Fashion’s Night Out LA

LOS ANGELES–If you find yourself in serious need of a vintage fix on Fashion’s Night Out, look no further than “A Current Affair,” a one-of-a-kind vintage pop-up shop located in the penthouse of Downtown LA’s Cooper Design Space.

Conceived by vintage jewelry dealer Richard Wainwright and Scout’s Joey Grana, the two day shopping extravaganza promises to be a fashion forward approach to vintage with over 20 dealers selling rare, high end, and collectible pieces. Featuring everything from ’50s era dresses to vintage inspired hats and headpieces to eyewear and jewelry, we have a feeling the items on display will be a far cry from your typical flea market wares.


And it gets even better. They’re kicking off Fashion’s Night Out with an open bar and DJ on Friday night. If you can’t make it downtown because of all the other events happening that night, be sure to stop by on Saturday.


Admission is $10 at the door, but with all the incredible vintage finds that await, we think you can splurge.

Fashion News Roundup: Lagerfeld Canceled, Deets on CBS’ FNO Special and Fashion’s Favorite Tattoo Artist

Lagerfeld Canceled: Karl Lagerfeld, who was scheduled to show his signature collection in Paris October 3rd canceled the event and is reportedly preparing a ready to wear collection that will be mass produced and sold online. {WWD, subscription required}

Keira Bikes for Chanel: In other Lagerfeld news, Keira Knightly put on her camel suede jumpsuit with matching boots and helmet and got on a Ducati motorcycle this weekend, reportedly for a Chanel commercial. The face of Coco Mademoiselle did have a stunt double. {Fashionologie}



Sally Sings:
A lovely interview with the wise and eloquent T editor, Sally Singer. {Paper}



Paint Your Nails with Tom Ford:
Black Orchid is now a nail polish. The bottle for Tom Ford’s first foray into nail color has been revealed. {Elle.com}



FNO on CBS:
Check out all the deets on CBS’ Fashion’s Night Out special. Susan Zirinsky is producing and compared the fashion event to war coverage. (Also, fun fact: the special was supposedly born out of a conversation between Anna Wintour and CBS CEO Les Moonves, whose daughter, Sara Moonves, used to be an assistant at Vogue until she was recently snatched up by Sally Singer.) {NY Daily News}


The Day Before: The Sundance Chanel has lots of great fashion programming, both online and on TV. The Day Before, an amazing series that documents the 24 hours leading up to a designer’s fashion show, premieres its second season tomorrow night with Diane Von Furstenburg. Also, check out clips from this season’s episodes, which include Versace, Alex Wang, Jeremy Scott and more. {Sundance Channel}



Fashion, Ink:
Meet Scott Campbell, tattoo artist to the (fashion) stars. He’s tattooed all the majors in the industry, from Marc Jacobs to Olivier Zahm to Erin Wasson. He also has a book coming out that is set to launch at Colette during Paris fashion week that Terry Richardson is involved with. {Paper}

Rumor: Prabal Gurung for Target?

Marion Curtis


We thought it was curious that, among all the celebrities who attended Target’s spectacular Spectacular at the Standard a few weeks ago, designer Prabal Gurung was on the red carpet too.


Since then, we’ve heard from two sources that Gurung is Target’s newest GO designer. We hope it’s true. Gurung’s use of bold colors, sharp tailoring, and elegant cocktail dresses would translate well for mass.


Gurung is a rising star (his first runway show was just last season), with just the right buzz to land a Target collaboration. He’s adored by editors and celebrities alike (including Mrs. O and Oprah), wins fashion awards, and hasn’t shied away fashion reality TV either (remember his City cameo?). Our sources won’t dish on when this collaboration might happen, but we’re hoping it’s soon–a holiday present maybe? Fingers crossed.

Street Style: Kelty Rocks One Earring

Name: Kelty




Age:
30



Occupation:
Works for an international education company


How would you describe your style? Whimsical and fun


What are the most prominent colors in your wardrobe? Bright yellows, reds and greens



What is your current favorite song?
I love the new Arcade Fire album.



What is your favorite dessert?
I love a good Cannoli!


Where is your skirt from? It’s from a thrift store in Pennsylvania.



Where is your earring from?
It’s from Argentina. I like to only wear one earring for some reason.


**All Photos by Ashley Jahncke.



kelty-playful
kelty

Sneak Peek: Leifsdottir Spring 2011

You’ve probably seen Leifsdottir at department stores like Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf–you’ve probably also spotted it at your local Anthropologie. That’s because the label is owned and operated by Urban Outfitters, Inc.

The contemporary consumer’s love for the collection has made it a standout for the Anthropologie brand. In fact, it’s so well received that the label has decided to host its Spring 2011 presentation at Lincoln Center. I recently caught up with Leifsdottir designer Johanna Uurasjarvi, who gave me a few hints about what to expect from the label’s first big show, as well as details on its new shoe collection.


Fashionista: Can you give me an idea of the theme of the season?

Johanna Uurasjarvi: The collection is inspired by my trip to the Amazon last spring and serpent photography by Guido Mocafico. It is a study of nature–contrasting the amazingly beautiful and the darker side.


How does it feel to show at Lincoln Center?

Very exciting! We are looking forward to be part of it–it is kind of the beginning of a new era.



How it is working with Clare Richardson, who is styling the show?


Clare is very talented and I feel that she really gets the modern girl. I am looking forward to collaborating with her.


Why do you think Leifsdottir has resonated with the contemporary buyer so deeply?

I think we have a unique look. It is more of a European feel, feminine with modern edge. We also give her lot of detail and workmanship that you would normally see only at high end designer market.


We hear that you’re doing shoes next–will they be on the runway? Can you tell us about them?

Yes! We are launching shoes for this spring, and I am thrilled how they look–I took inspiration from Scandinavian furniture design for really iconic constructions that combine strong curved lines with split heels and wedges. We are doing lots of mixing of materials in neutral but contrasting tones. The shoes will definitely be in our show.

Mad Men Style Recap, Episode 7

Mad Men, a show whose motto could be “subtlety is the best policy,” traded in their whispers for screams this episode. Taking place over one day, Don and Peggy’s relationship hit a wall and broke through to the other side. Starting with bet placing on the fight between Cassius Clay and Sonny Liston, the episode explored strength & toughness in a very literal way. Who is stronger Clay or Liston, Samsonite or American Traveler, Don or Peggy’s will? In the end everyone broke down, got back up, and continued fighting, well, everyone except Liston that is.

This episode pitted Don’s slimmest-ever grey suit, grey striped tie with a thin, black triple stripe, and a teeny grey fedora against Peggy’s full skirted, patterned, brown dress and slingback shoes. Not to say all patterned, full skirted brown dresses are equal, but Trudy wore a similar style a couple episodes ago when she told Pete she was pregnant. A subtle allusion or nothing at all? (Sidenote: Trudy’s teal pregnancy ensemble was pure brilliance. And her little white gloves to finish the look added just the patrician touch of elegance to her conversation about bloodsport and raw meat.) Either way, Peggy was celebrating her birthday in style, with her hair flipped at a 180 degree angle and her sparkliest earrings on, later adding her cyan coat and white hat though they never really made it outside.


Ultimately the Don vs. Peggy dynamic became a Don + Peggy dynamic that left many viewers thinking a Draper-Olson tryst was in the future. Personally, I want so much more for both of them but I’m starting to realize that maybe Peggy has been in love with Don this whole time. She can’t keep a steady boyfriend, whether it’s Duck or Mark (or Pete? Ew.), and the only man whom she sticks with is Don, and that because he sticks with her. (Although I read Don’s interest in Peggy as a more fatherly love than a sexual one, because we all know that when Don is sexually interested in someone, he makes it obvious.)


The Draper-Olson debate/fight/”real talk” whatever you want to call it that consumed this episode left little room for other character’s and their wardrobes. Joan makes a small appearance in a navy pencil skirt and creme sheer blouse with a tiny green pattern to tell the Samsonite boys to clean up. Arrogant Joey, who must be the muse for American Apparel’s shift into refined pastel work wardrobes, in a lilac shirt and later camel windbreaker looks perfectly hip for 1965 or 2010, while the petite Danny in a grey plaid jacket, black and white diagonally striped tie and blue pants and macho Stan in a blue on blue striped polo and brown pants look like the perfect comic foils to each other. Their reenactment of their proposed Samsonite ad is adorable, funny, and probably would’ve sold a ton of luggage, but old-man Draper isn’t buying the endorsement angle. (Even though Joe Namath would end of being on of the greatest QBs and celeb endorsers ever.)


Also making a small appearance is Roger Sterling in another one of his classy three piece, grey suits. Roger spends his screen time proclaiming the virtues of alcoholism and spilling some SCDP secrets (particularly one regarding Burt Cooper’s nether-regions that I NEVER wanted to think about.) There’s Peggy’s gorgeous secretary Megan in a slim fitting navy dress, Ken in another one of his brown suits, Pete in another one of his blue suits, and Duck in some mangy looking suit pants and a wrinkly shirt attempting to defecate in Roger’s office. Stephanie comes back briefly in a hot pink robe, and the beloved Anna Draper, the sunshine of Mad Men, makes a ghostly appearance in a sun-yellow floral dress. Peggy’s family looks straight out of an Awkward Family Photo’s post, her mother in all blue, sister in all pastel pink, and roommate in muted florals. Mark in a black suit and tie, tries to keep his cool at the “Four out of twelve Seasons,” but loses it once Peggy chooses Don over him.


Ultimately, this episode left me savoring for more sartorially, since the only characters seen for more than a cameo were Don and Peggy. From the previews it looks like Betty’s back next week, meaning her stellar wardrobe is also making a comeback.

Match the Designer to Their iPod Playlist!

Last week, we asked psychic Roxanne Hulderman to predict the future for five New York designers. This week, we want you to predict what their Spring 2011 runway soundtracks will sound like based on their iPods. Oh, and you also have to match the designer to his or her playlist! Everyone from Max Osterweis of SUNO to Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava has participated–have fun!

Fashion GPS: The Company That Has Made Going to Fashion Shows As Easy As Checking In For a Flight

When it comes to technology, the fashion industry is resistant to change. For fashion shows, publicists use unwieldy seating charts, using stickies to seat and reseat editors and buyers up until the last minute. Editors at big glossies arrange their books so they’re spread out, page by page, along a wall or table (you remember that room in The September Issue where Vogue’s book was laid out right? The one Grace Coddington kept popping into to see how many pages of her spreads had been cut?) Designers send out thick glossy lookbooks after their shows so editors and buyers can request the looks they saw on the runway. Invitations to shows are bulky (though their heft and shape is part of the fun) and sent via snail mail or hand delivered.

But the industry has slowly but surely begun to embrace technology wholeheartedly (without losing the glamor, of course). A lot of the credit is due to a small startup called Fashion GPS. This year, Fashion GPS is managing 80% of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week’s shows, and 184 shows total during New York Fashion Week. That means they’re providing the tech systems that manage contact lists, provide online invitations, handle RSVPs, and seating. Last season, they managed just 40 shows.



If you’re in the biz, you know the name. Fashion GPS has been around for six years now. The 15-person company, helmed by tech consultant Eddie Mullon, was started around six years ago when fashion PR powerhouse KCD, one of his consulting clients, asked him to create a tracking system so they could keep tabs on their samples. Imagine designer’s collections like library books that needed to be checked in and out. From there, Marc Jacobs expressed interest in Mullon’s sample tracking system, and he revamped his system so that it was web-based and allowed multiple users to access the system.


“I figured out there was a niche,” says Mullon, “But for the first couple of years it was a pretty hard sell trying to pitch it to other brands…it took me about two years to really understand the fashion world.”


After building up a network of clients who used Fashion GPS to track samples, the next logical step was creating a system to manage contacts, lookbooks and fashion shows.


“It’s taken a lot of work and persistence to get people to come on board,” says Mullon, “but I think there’s a shift in the industry and people are seeing the efficiency of technology.”


Here’s what the shift looks like: While hard invites are still sent out (and we hope that’s a fashion tradition that never fades), most shows send out an online invitation as well. RSVP’ing to a show using Fashion GPS is as simple as clicking “Yes.” If you’ve already received your seating via email, you’ll also have a barcode, which you simply scan at the entrance to the show. Once you’ve scanned in, that alerts the system that you’ve arrived and marks your seat as filled. If you have an invite (with a barcode) but no seating, you’ll scan your barcode at a kiosk, just like self-check in for a flight, and the kiosk will print out a little ticket with a barcode and your seating assignment. If you’ve got nothing–no invite, no barcode–just your name and affiliation, there will be two “designer desks” manned by publicists bookending the kiosks so you can talk to a real person and check in with them.


At the Mercedes Benz tents at Lincoln Center, you can also expect ipads instead of clipboards in the hands of harried publicists. These ipads hold seating charts for each show so names can be dragged and dropped into seats up until five minutes before the show starts.


You’d think with all these checks and scans it might be harder to sneak into fashion week this season.


“If you’ve got the gift of the gab, you’ll sweet talk your way in anyway,” says Mullon.


Some things never change.

First Impressions on America’s Next Top Model’s Super High Fashion Cycle 15

America’s Next Top Model Cycle 15 premiers Wednesday but we got a chance to preview the first two episodes and we will tell you this: It is good.

All the ANTM hallmarks are there: The screaming girls, the “she doesn’t really want to be here” girls, the Jays, and Tyra with all her glorious Tyra-isms. But this season is being marketed as the “high fashion” season. The season in which the “bar has been raised.” We might have scoffed at this when we first heard it, since most ANTM winners do not actually go on to be top models, but there’s no denying that this cycle has got some serious fashion clout.


The winner gets a spread (not the cover) of Vogue Italia and the cover of their “Beauty in Vogue” issue. And the guest list this season is just as impressive as the grand prize: In addition to Vogue Italia’s EIC Franca Sozzani, Diane Von Furstenberg, Zac Posen, Roberto Cavalli, Patrick Demarchelier, Matthew Rolston and Korlina Kurkova will all make appearances. DVF is a guest judge on the first elimination and we wouldn’t mind seeing more of her on small screen. She’s so regal.



Also that super skinny super tall contestant Ann that everyone got freaked out about during the promos for the show? The one whose waist was so small Miss J could fit his hands around it? There’s another much skinnier contestant whose weight proves far more problematic. But you’ll have to tune in Wednesday to see the drama play out.

Pre-Fashion Week Mad-Libs: Wes Gordon


Wes Gordon, a promising Central St. Martin’s grad, will be showing his second collection at New York Fashion Week. Wes, we too love of Florence & the Machine, Toms and Mad Men. Let’s be friends.

Andrew Mukamal Tells Us the Story Behind His Styling For Kimberly Taylor’s SS2011 Collection

After watching Andrew Mukamal on Kell On Earth, young designer Kimberly Taylor decided that he was her “soul mate,” and that they needed to work together. So they have.

Tomorrow, Taylor presents her first full collection for Spring/Summer 2011, styled by Andrew Mukamal. It’s his first major gig after leaving People’s Revolution just over a month ago. We knew from watching Mukamal alongside Kelly Cutrone on Kell on Earth that he was chatty and hilarious. So we asked him to walk us through the story behind three of his favorite looks that he styled for Taylor. Because, Mukamal told us, “Each girls has a story.”

BoF Daily Digest | Manolo for Liberty, Fashion film evolution, Cavalli profits, Lakme links to e-commerce, Real Harajuku girls

Manolo Blahnik at work | Source: Manolo Blahnik


Well heeled: Manolo Blahnik and his left-hand woman (Independent)

“As his exclusive collection for Liberty arrives, Manolo Blahnik talks footwear, films and fabrics with his niece and ‘left-hand woman’ Kristina…Since he set up shop in the Seventies Manolo Blahnik has become the world’s most famous artisan shoemaker.”


The Evolution of the Fashion Film (WSJ)

“‘This is the new advertising… The consumer and the audience are one…. While the Internet has facilitated the blossoming of fashion films, fashion photographers have long experimented with motion pictures.”


Cavalli back to profit (Reuters)

“Italian fashion house Cavalli, best known for animal print designs, returned to profit in the first half, as a pick-up in sales helped offset lower licence fees. As a result of a strong reorganisation at the group, retail and wholesale revenue grew 4 percent.”


Lakme Fashion Week ties up with e-commerce portal (Relax News)

“Lakme Fashion Week has entered into a strategic collaboration with fashion trade portal Fashion And You as part of its push to further the business of fashion by using e-commerce.”



The Real Harajuku Girls (WWD)

“Young Japanese women are an eclectic bunch… WWD plucked a sample of these consumers from the bustling streets of Harajuku and asked them about their personal style and shopping habits. Here’s what they had to say.”

The Spotlight | Ana Locking

Ana Locking Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 | Source: thefashionisto.com


MADRID, Spain — This month, the BoF Spotlight turns to Spain. Despite a contracting economy, an increase in sales tax and nationwide austerity measures, it turns out that, between LVMH-owned luxury brand Loewe and fast fashion powerhouse Inditex — owners of global brands Zara, Bershka and Massimo Dutti — there’s still room in the market for a young and creative Spanish brand like Ana Locking.


Founded in 2008 by Ana Gonzalez, the label’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, ‘Spinning Destiny,’ incorporates bold colours arranged in a calculated progression that culminates in a unique pattern that resembles spinning paint, or spin art. Experimental jewellery made of brightly coloured paraffin wax set in brass emphasizes the perishable life of consumer goods.


Ana takes abstract ideas like “guilty beauty” or “inherent destinies” and transforms them into collections for both men and women. But for a company rooted in pure creativity, negotiating today’s economy has not been easy. “Shops aren’t thinking a lot of buying emerging brands. They play it safe and buy established brands,” said a spokesperson at Ana Locking’s studio.


The absence of strong fashion awareness in Spain further complicates the situation for the fledgling brand. “In Spain, there isn’t a fashion culture. More and more younger people are interested in Spanish fashion, but it will be ten years before they become potential buyers of our brand,” said the spokesperson.


Ana Locking for BoF | Source: Ana Locking Studio


But Ana Locking has managed to strike a delicate balance between competitive pricing and quality and been able to stay afloat by connecting with a wider, more global audience outside Spain, largely via the internet. Indeed, the brand’s e-commerce site (currently being overhauled) has been instrumental in establishing a presence in countries from the Netherlands to Kuwait. Ana Locking has also collaborated with online retailers Yoox and BuyVip.com to create exclusive capsule collections. Meanwhile on the wholesale front, the label is extending its presence in emerging markets and counts Harvey Nichols Hong Kong as a stockist.


At BoF, we wish Ana the best of luck in pursuing her vision and growing her business as we shine our Spotlight on her colourfully spun designs.


The Spotlight is BoF’s showcase for emerging talent employing creativity and business acumen to make their mark in the fashion business. This month’s Spotlight was written by Elizabeth Peng, an M.A. student in Fashion Journalism at Central St Martins, is an editorial intern at The Business of Fashion.

Brachfeld Parlaghy Handbag

Here is a new line of handbags, enjoy!

pilar-grey_ko


A handbag of luxe leather and chiseled hardware can make a woman feel strong and sexy, just as a pair of stilettos can put a strut in her step. Brachfeld Parlaghy represents strength and individuality for the daring and stylish urbanite. Laura Brachfeld Parlaghy grew up feeling the creative pulse of her native New York. From a very young age her obsession with fashion was driven by this fast-paced cultural mecca. She attended Cornell University, where she focused her studies on sculpture, painting, photography and art history.After graduating, Laura returned to Manhattan and successfully channeled her artistic talents into her own handbag line, with presence in premiere retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman. Taking a hiatus from designing her own collection, Laura’s past seven years have required extensive international travel to guide the creative direction and design for prominent contemporary handbag brands. In 2010, Laura launches Brachfeld Parlaghy. Meticulous attention to detail, exceptional leathers, and utility are at the core of her creative process. Custom-made industrial hardware and intricately linked trims tell a story, making each design, and the person wearing it, bold and provocative.


Shop the collection on Shop Bop here.