Osman’s Beautiful Cuts Still Come Out Flat

LONDON–There’s something about the BFC tent at Somerset House that’s wild. I’m not sure if it’s the stark black walls juxtaposed against the brightly light catwalk or the hoards of students circling around the entrances. But it feels crazy. Or maybe I’m just crazy, which is also quite possible at this point in Fashion Month.

Celebrated designer Osman Yousefzada’s clothes, which he showed yesterday in the space, are not crazy or schizophrenic under any circumstances. His pieces are all about the dramatic, clean cut. Most definitely a minimalist, he adds edge to ensembles with an asymmetric hem here, a flourish of flouncy fabric there. It’s difficult to deny his particular genius.

But one thing Yousefzada lacks is plenty of funding. And unfortunately, that shows in the clothes. Minimalist fashion is often considered more challenging than the over-the-top variety, simply because mistakes are difficult to hide. While his cuts are spectacular, the fabric Yousefzada uses doesn’t have the same impact, which gives buyers little reason to bring him on. If the dress isn’t going to look good next to a Raf Simon’s piece, no one is going to spend money on it.

Many have said that Yousefzada is the rising star of UK fashion, and we could believe it. His swinging dresses and rounded hems were a welcome change to the gaggle of prints that have been coming down the runway this season. Hopefully he’ll be rewarded with some support next year to create even more beautiful clothes.