Erdem’s Breathless Beauty

LONDON–This season, celebrated designer Erdem Moralioglu put out yet another garden-inspired collection, this one with a focus on primary colors: blue, red, and yellow. The setting was, appropriately, a garden square in Central London, just off Tottenham Court Road.

Moralioglu designs with an early 20th century lady in mind, but his pieces are light enough in weight to come off as modern. As a bride-to-be obsessed with his use of lace, as well as his silhouettes–both short and long–I couldn’t help but gasp at the sight of his first few looks: all white and all lace.

The Nicholas Kirkwood shoes, inspired by the ballet–for which Moralioglu would someday like to design–paired perfectly with every dress length. But other than a cream and green print near the end, there wasn’t much new from Erdem. Each collection kind of runs into the other. Yet given the exquisite craftsmanship of his work, he’s undoubtedly the most popular designer on the London fashion scene right now. The American editors who trekked over to see his collection–Sally Singer in particular–prove this is his fashion moment.

(Another quick thanks to Swarovski, who underwrote Erdem’s show, as well as my front row seat.)