BoF Daily Newsletter: The Spotlight | Roberta Furlanetto |
Posted: 10 May 2010 07:14 PM PDT controversy has erupted as the Italian fashion industry has faced a crisis of confidence. MILAN, Italy — The words “Made in Italy” have long been the pride of the Italian fashion system. But, in recent years, In late 2007, a Rai3 documentary called Slaves of Luxury “revealed a slimy world of underpaid immigrant labour, huge price mark-ups, and what was portrayed to be undue influence from American heavyweights like Anna Wintour,” as reported by BoF at the time. Indeed, speaking to Il Giornale newspaper about the demise of his business after 50 years, longtime Italian manufacturer Giancarlo De Bortoli of Confezioni Herry’s lambasted the Italian fashion brands for their lack of ethics, slowly “strangling” businesses like his over the years. The financial crisis was the final blow, bringing the Italian fashion industry to its knees and sending companies like Confezioni Herry’s and Mariella Burani into administration. Thankfully, the news from Italy isn’t all bad. In his interview with Il Giornale, Mr. Bertoli also singled out small companies like Roberta Furlanetto and Luisa Beccaria that are still making the best of Italian craftsmanship. Roberta Furlanetto cut her fashion teeth by collaborating with Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior and Azzedine Alaïa. Her 3 year old eponymous company designs all of its embroidery in-house and everything is ethically Made in Italy, working only with the best Italian artisans using biologically sustainable materials whenever possible, an approach highlighted by the brand’s participation in Cittadellarte Fashion BEST (Bio, Ethical, Sustainable, Trend) with Franca Sozzani and Michelangelo Pistoletto, and featured by friends of BoF at the EVER Manifesto. But ethics aside, success in fashion always comes down to the product, and here Ms. Furlanetto also shines, having quietly won over some of the best stockists in the world, including Dover Street Market in London, L'Eclaireur in Paris, Gio Moretti in Milan, and famed boutique Linda Dresner in Michigan. Susie Bubble also recently raved about Furlanetto’s “articulated finery and precious gowns.” We at the BoF agree and wish Roberta the best of luck in achieving her unique vision for the future of Italian fashion as we put her signature embroidery into the BoF Spotlight. The Spotlight is BoF's showcase for emerging talent employing creativity and business acumen to make their mark in the fashion business. |
Posted: 10 May 2010 11:21 AM PDT Harrods’ new owners announce upgrade plans (Telegraph) “Qatar Holding is expected to back an expansion programme into new areas including China. Harrods could become a global franchise as new owner… announces plans to ‘upgrade’ the luxury retailer.” BCBG opens in London (Elle.com) “BCBG Max Azria is the latest U.S. label to open its doors in the UK. Following October’s launch of Anthropologie and the imminent arrival of J. Crew on Net a Porter, BCBG opened on London’s Kings Road over the weekend.” Baroque and roll: Fashion houses go back to their roots (Independent) “In demanding economic times, the major fashion houses are going back to their roots for inspiration – so it's no wonder that Donatella Versace is focusing on high glamour, rainbow colour and ultra-sexy silhouettes.” Now Showing | Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston (T Magazine) “… what the director, Whitney Sudler-Smith, presented on Friday at its world premiere at the Tribeca Film Festival was an affectionate, often kid-glove portrait — or make that ultrasuede-glove portrait — of the fashion legend.” Mrs. Bono on how fashion can save the world (Times Online) “Ali Hewson is determined to shrug off the sackcloth image of ethical fashion. What exactly does ethical mean? … I'm hoping that by following Hewson round in Uganda, I may find out — and discover whether it can really be good business.” |
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