BoF Daily Newsletter: First Person | Pamela Love

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First Person | Pamela Love Posted: 30 Jun 2010 03:11 PM PDT Pamela Love | Courtesy of Pamela Love First Person, a new series on BoF, brings you business stories and lessons from real fashion entrepreneurs. First up, cult jewellery designer, Pamela Love. NEW YORK, United States — For the past three years Brooklyn-born jewellery designer Pamela Love has set about crafting her business in the same way she shapes the hand-hewn gothic accessories she sells. "Just like I learn new techniques for making jewellery as I go along," she says, "I learn more and more about how to run a business. In the beginning I didn't know anything, and every season I am like, 'oh, right, I should have insurance, my employees should be on payroll.' Every season we've become more and more of a proper business." Alongside her Autumn 2010 collection — always supplemented by a trans-seasonal "classic collection" of signature pieces the designer maintains and updates regularly — Love has recently done a series of collaborations, creating a limited edition Mammoth cuff with Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons and a line inspired by the Spike Jonze film Where the Wild Things Are with Opening Ceremony, as well as re-teaming with frequent co-conspirator Frank Tell on accents for his Autumn/Winter 2010 line. Ms. Love is ambitious, hoping to lead her brand into housewares, wallpaper, handbags and shoe design. But her talent took flight when the former New York University film student trained it on her first love: jewellery. While working as an assistant to painter Francesco Clemente and styling fashion shoots, Love found herself drawn to on her symbol-laden metal- and crystal-work. "I just stopped spending my time on other things," she says. "I was trying to learn as much as I could. I didn't study jewellery design in school so I had to apprentice and learn through experimentation. Once I had a product that was saleable, it was very organic. It wasn't like, 'oh, I have a business plan and I have this much money to invest.' It was more like, 'I made this stuff, now let me try to sell it.' And I did." Pamela Love Jewellery | Courtesy of Pamela Love Colette carried her first collection. Opening Ceremony — whose showroom now also handles all the brand's sales — carried her second. Now her work can be found at retailers in over 30 cities worldwide, including big names like Browns, Bergdorf's, Bendel's, Barney's, and Fred Segal. But her PR program — if you can call it that — was entirely organic. "I happened to be a stylist — not a very established one, but I knew some people, and they were wearing the jewellery. I knew models who wore the jewellery to shoots and stylists asked them to keep the jewellery on [for the shoots] and a couple of friends of mine who were editors were like, 'well, let's write some stories about it.'" Requests came in to carry the product before the line was even properly established, putting Love in an enviable position. "My philosophy was to never chase after anybody and let everybody come to you," she says. "I feel like you are going to get more support and love from people who reach out to you and really want to work with you.” Indeed, the business seems to have grown quite naturally, based mostly on word of mouth. “A store would be interested in me and I would work with them and then another store would be interested as a result or we would get some press and we would work with them." But even if well-positioned contacts had proved fortuitous in placing the pieces in editorials and, ultimately, in storefronts, Love says her early work as a stylist helped little to prepare her for the reality of establishing a viable business. "When you start a business your mind changes, your way of thinking about money and scheduling changes." But it's by keeping her business as intimate and unique as one of her eagle talon cuffs that Love — who currently does not have nor is seeking outside investment — has found her way. As she describes it, keeping it tight is the key. "We don't produce anything in factories in Asia. Because of that our production is a little slower and more expensive. For that reason we don't really sit on stock. When a store places an order, that is usually when we go into production. As we've grown we've learned, ok, these are really popular, maybe we should make a certain amount of extra in addition to our orders." So what's the hardest lesson Love has had to learn along the way? "The idea that you have to spend money to make money. The idea that you have to hire more people, get a bigger office space, shell out money for a website was so difficult for me. For a really long time I was kind of hoarding what I had for the jewellery, but you have to realise that it's all related — if I spend a bunch of money on my website, it's worth it." Looking back, as orders continue to pile in, Love has some good advice for aspiring jewellery designers on the make. "Know as much as you can," she says. "Be able to make everything yourself before you start mass producing something or sending it out for someone else to make. I think you have a much greater appreciation for and understanding of something if you've made it with your hands." The same might be said of a business. Chris Wallace is an editor and writer based in New York. His work has appeared in Dossier Journal, i-D, Interview and T. 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BoF Daily Digest | Hakaan takes ANDAM, Erdem’s accidental beauty, Luxe prices rise, Chinese in Tokyo, Forever 21’s big bet Posted: 30 Jun 2010 02:31 AM PDT And The ANDAM Winner Is… (Style.com) “Turkish designer Hakaan Yildirim is the newest winner of ANDAM's €220,000 prize… It was only last February, before his first London show, that English fashion scribes were wondering in print: ‘Who is Hakaan?’” Erdem Moralioglu: A man for all seasons (Independent) “His printing technique involves the designer playing around creatively on his computer for hours, digitally altering prints by blurring them or re-sizing them, painting over them and destroying them. ‘It’s always quite a lengthy, organic process and we never really know what the end result will be.’” Price of luxury rises despite the recession (Telegraph) “With the super-rich beginning to spend freely once more the prices of upmarket services and products have rallied for the first time since the financial crisis began.” Japan Opens Doors to More Chinese Shoppers (WSJ) “Swarms of Asian tourists disembark from a bus with tinted windows, snapping pictures and staring in awe at Japan’s capital city while a petite tour guide waving a flag shouts instructions—in Mandarin.” Forever 21 Pursues Big-Store Branding (WSJ) “Teens continue to swarm Forever 21’s piles of inexpensive, high-fashion-imitating party dresses and tank tops. But moving into cavernous spaces, like the 90,000-square-foot spot near 46th and Broadway, is forcing the chain into new categories… where its hold on consumers is less certain.” This posting includes an audio/video/photo media file: Download Now

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BoF Daily Newsletter: Digital Scorecard | Because Magazine

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Digital Scorecard | Because Magazine Posted: 29 Jun 2010 03:22 PM PDT Because Magazine Screenshot | Source: Because LONDON, United Kingdom — Fashion editorial has long been a powerful generator of purchasing intent for brands. But ‘intent generators’ like magazines often lose their fair share of sales revenue to ‘intent harvesters’ like retailers further down the purchasing path. Squeezed by shrinking ad sales, major publishers like Condé Nast have become increasingly aware of this missed opportunity — and more and more magazines have learnt to think like retailers, embracing e-commerce to open new revenue streams and monetise their content. Now, digital start-ups like Because Magazine, created by the team at Tank, are building commerce directly into their business models from day one. Soft-launched back in September of 2009 and currently in public beta prior to a "full scale" launch at London Fashion Week in September, Because is a curated, daily selection of fashion, accessories, jewellery and beauty products that's a digital storefront as much as an online magazine. BoF spoke with Caroline Issa, editor-in-chief of Because, to find out more. BoF: How would you describe Because? CI: Because is a daily dose of fashion, fun and information. It's glamourous dim sum, a selection of things to buy, see, listen to, and of course share. BoF: Why did you decide to launch Because? Why now? CI: We shop a lot online and what we noticed was that there was nowhere where fashion was editorialised and packaged in a way that best suited the medium. When you shop online, you spend as much time looking for stuff as you do looking at stuff. We wanted to create a curated list, brought to life in the best way possible. Something that was done creatively, with fun and humour, that was shopable there and then. Our aim was to engage people using moving images and inspire them to buy. BoF: Is everything on Because shopable? CI: Yes absolutely, even the songs that go with the videos. It's one of our founding principles to make everything available, so that if you fancy something you click to buy there and then. The word magazine is actually rooted in an Arabic word al makhzan which means ’shop,’ so all magazines have been waiting for the technology to allow them to be the thing they were always meant to be — a shopfront! Of course, it isn't a perfect world and a lot of cool stuff isn't yet available to buy online, so we also pass our members on to the nearest physical retailer and work with retailers to put things aside for those who show an interest in an item that's not available online. BoF: Who curates the content on Because? CI: I choose items, as does a full-time team of fashion editors. We have also invited a selection of editors who specialise in jewellery, accessories and beauty products to contribute. We don't want too much information and too many perspectives, we just want the right information and opinions from the people I rate and trust. BoF: How does Because make money? CI: We have a multi-strand approach: lots of little streams that will join together to make a lovely river we hope. Advertising certainly will have a role, but the existing models around cost per click just don't add up. We are looking at brand advertising and, of course, we are going to be very selective about the brands we will work with, just as we are in our print magazines. Affiliate sales are another stream, which is already working well. But more exciting is the idea of paid-for and tiered membership which brings with it layers of privileged information and support networks to find bargains and exclusive items, share tips and most importantly get advice on fashion and beauty. BoF: What new features or iterations can we expect in the future? CI: Because has been in development for two years and live for nearly one year. The current version is version 1.2. We are working hard for the next quantum leap forward in September with Because 2.0. The beauty of publishing online is the instant reaction you get and your ability to respond. Because 2.0 will be the culmination of one year of talking to and learning from users. OUR THOUGHTS: Expectations? We think consumers would love nothing more than to be able to shop directly from their favourite fashion magazines. And while we've seen some interesting experiments, we have long wondered why publishers have found it so difficult to operationalise and capitalise on shopable content, connecting their editorial (and not just their advertising) to online commerce. When we heard that Caroline Issa — who has a background in business strategy, as well as an impeccable sense of style — was working on a digital fashion magazine that was completely shopable, naturally, we were excited. First impressions? The content on the site is beautifully selected. With pieces by Hermione de Paula, Philip Treacy, Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab, alongside some of the more playful offerings from established brands like Prada and Chanel, it's clear that the product mix reflects a uniquely informed and well-articulated stylistic point of view. Most potential? The site is nicely packaged for the way people consume content and shop online today. For time-poor professionals, with increasingly short attention spans, the fast, blog-like product stories and bite-sized 30-second fashion videos are ideal for quick bursts of "media snacking" during short and unpredictable moments of found time. What's missing? While Because neatly connects online commerce with digestible fashion content that's curated by influential and opinionated tastemakers, the one thing that's strikingly absent on the site is the voice of other shoppers. A 'Like' button next to each product makes the contents of the site easily sharable across Facebook, but there is no means of visualising and exploring the products other people have found most interesting. Social shopping sites have proven that people love to see what other people are browsing and buying and that fellow consumers, alongside tastemakers, can be powerful "intent generators" who drive sales. Make no mistake, great fashion magazines are about giving people a stylistic point of view. Curation matters enormously. But as Because Magazine earns attention and grows its readership in advance of its September launch, a more transparent experience, where consumers can easily explore and be influenced by what others are doing and liking, could help the site drive engagement and build an active community of fans. Vikram Alexei Kansara is Managing Editor of The Business of Fashion

BoF Daily Digest | Prada aims high, Takashimaya shutters USA, Managing content, Rise of shopping tours, Menswear’s radical shift Posted: 29 Jun 2010 09:53 AM PDT Prada Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Prada Prada Is Aiming at a Valuation of More Than $4.9 Billion (Bloomberg) “Prada is aiming for a valuation of over 4 billion euros ($4.95 billion), while bankers estimate the Italian fashion label is worth between 3 billion euros and 4 billion euros.” Takashimaya Says It Will End U.S. Operations (Bloomberg) “Takashimaya Co., a Japanese department-store operator, said it plans to terminate its U.S. operations to relocate resources to faster-growing markets in Asia.” Managing the Distribution of Content as a Luxury Brand (Fashion Collective) “The reality is that viral marketing for high end brands already exists, and it's lucrative… it's bloggers [and] fashion fanatics that passionately write about the pieces and brands they love.” Luxury Shopping Tours Gain Popularity (Red Luxury) “In France, Chinese tourists surpassed all other nationalities as the biggest shoppers according to a recent French government survey. As a result, French travel companies are developing more shopping programs for the Chinese.” Radical Surgery on Regular Menswear (IHT) “Off with the coat sleeves! Cut away the collar! Snip at pants until they morph into shorts! Split the seams and close them with zippers! Radical surgery on regular menswear was the message of the Paris summer 2011 season that ended Monday.”

BoF Daily Newsletter: BoF Daily Digest | Liberty looks forward, The return of private label, Marzotto’s niche, Strategic tweeting, A new elegance

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BoF Daily Digest | Liberty looks forward, The return of private label, Marzotto’s niche, Strategic tweeting, A new elegance Posted: 28 Jun 2010 05:37 AM PDT Liberty of London Menswear Spring 2010 | Source: Fashionisto Liberty’s new owner sets out plans for growth (Guardian) “Liberty’s new private equity owner BlueGem Capital, formed in 2006 by a group of former Merrill Lynch bankers… set out its plans for the department store group, which it described as ‘a national treasure’.” Harrods Create Own-Brand Fashion to Revive Sales (Bloomberg) “We have invested in all categories as we saw a white space that none of our vendor partners were addressing… Each season we edit our portfolio of resources and instead of filling with only other new brands, some of these dollars and floor space have gone to our own collection.” Small brands can bite (Washington Post) “Small brands can carve out a safe niche for themselves in an overcrowded fashion market, former Valentino chairman Matteo Marzotto said, adding that ideas count more than money in the crisis-hit luxury industry.” Luxury Department Stores on Twitter (Fashion Collective) “It's been interesting to watch as more and more luxury brands and retailers get on the ‘Twitter train.’ In particular, [watching] how the department stores (amidst their complex organizations) are innovating in this space. Unfortunately, not all have gotten on board, but there are a few clear standouts.” Looking for a New Elegance (IHT) “That message echoes through the Paris shows as designers strive to meld — rather than contrast — tailoring and sportswear, liquid and linear, and to absorb the colors of garden and desert into the grey-blue city skyline.”

BoF Daily Newsletter: BoF Daily Digest | Empire state of fashion, Burberry interactive, Coach goes for guys, Bluefly’s viral push, Suits lose their sting

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BoF Daily Digest | Empire state of fashion, Burberry interactive, Coach goes for guys, Bluefly’s viral push, Suits lose their sting Posted: 25 Jun 2010 03:16 AM PDT Thom Browne, Tommy Hilfiger, Victor Alfaro's Mannequins | Source: WSJ Designers Pitch Brand New York (WSJ) “Young labels like the Row, Jason Wu, Nellie Partow, Waris Ahluwalia and Prabal Gurung are trumpeting their New York roots on apparel and labels in an effort to create a sartorial version of the locavore movement.” Burberry launches interactive ad campaign (Retail Week) “Burberry has developed an interactive digital advertising campaign for its Autumn 10 collection that allows users to control the cast and products in each shot.” Coach Gets Beyond The Bag, Goes For Guys (Forbes) “The fasts pace of growth for men's products is especially noticeable in developing markets, such as India and China where the market is growing at a brisk pace of 25-35%. Even during the crisis, men's accessories have proven to be more resilient than those for women.” Bluefly going viral for more luxury buzz (Reuters) “Bluefly is adding live interviews with celebrities to its fashion shopping website and allowing consumers to upload their own videos, part of a larger effort to attract buzz, new customers and sales.” Taking the Sting Out of Suits (IHT) “Blame it on the bankers and the hedge fund executives — not to mention the politicians… the overriding theme of the Paris menswear season, which opened Thursday, is to promote smart casual looks and take the sting out of suits.”

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The Fashion Trail | A Jil Sander Sorbet and Burberry’s Acoustic Treats

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The Fashion Trail | A Jil Sander Sorbet and Burberry’s Acoustic Treats Posted: 22 Jun 2010 02:50 PM PDT Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Pitti Imaggine MILAN, Italy — This season, BoF tipped its toes a bit deeper into the waters of the Italian men’s fashion scene, starting with Pitti Uomo and moving on to fashion week in Milan. And, as the fashion circus moves on to Paris tomorrow, my fashion fantasies are still lingering on the outstanding presentation by Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 at the stunning Villa Gamberaia just outside Florence. It might not have been particularly wearable, but it certainly left a lasting impression. Editors and bloggers were out in full force to see Mr. Simons’ pops of colour, which Tommy Ton aptly described—in the words of Michael Roberts, he was careful to point out—as a bit of sorbet to “cleanse the palate” before the start of the season. Tim Blanks called it “a synthetic sundae.” And afterwards, Susie Bubble was practically reeling from the sensory overload created by the combination of fluorescent colour-blocking, the setting sun, a looming rainstorm and those sweet flashes of colour below the classic shoes. Describing the collection, Raf Simons told BoF that it was “A celebration of colour; a tribute to the vibrancy of extreme tropical nature, with colours that were brighter than ever before, renewing the summer wardrobe and subverting the codes of formal tailoring.” Indeed, it was a refreshing and promising start for the men’s season which had just begun. There was little subversion in Milan, however, where the mega brands were out in force, doing their commercial thing with the expected dose of Italian swagger. Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Ermenegildo Zegna were among the brands who showed their wares in large scale fashion shows dotted throughout the city’s golden triangle. While of impressive scale, there was little in these events to leave a lasting emotional impact, though there was plenty to add to my personal wish list for next Spring. Unfortunately, it will be at least 6 months before I can buy any of it. Luckily, Burberry’s outerwear—and not just the trench, this season saw Christopher Bailey’s homage to the biker jacket—was available for sale online immediately, with deliveries in a six to eight week timeframe. But the amazing Burberry gladiator sandals and delicate military shirts will have to wait until the Spring/Summer 2011 merchandise hits the shop floor sometime around December, conveniently in the middle of winter. When we will sort out these fashion seasons for once and for all? I want to buy now. More exciting than the click-to-buy clothes was Burberry’s clever link-up with young British musicians, a refreshing and authentic step forward after last season’s PR-heavy push to keep livestream and 3D viewers entertained as real-life guests took their seats. This time, online viewers could preview videos of acoustic tracks by some truly talented young musicians, as curated by Christopher Bailey. It risked coming across as gimmicky, but instead felt perfectly in tune with the brand’s British DNA. “Burberry is an iconic British brand and Britishness is so much about music,” Bailey told me in a mob of international media backstage after the show, saying that he discovered the young talents in lots of different ways. “It’s never very strategic…when something really hits me, I love it.” As for the Burberry Acoustic concept, Bailey said that it came directly as a result of feedback from the brand’s Facebook fans. “Whenever we’ve done things with music at shows or events, it’s always been incredibly well received. We’ve got a lot of Facebook fans and we’ve had a lot of feedback that they love the music, so this was kind of an organic project,” he explained. Rumour has it that Live in Film, one of the bands featured in Burberry Acoustic, is being heavily pursued by an international music label. So, the young musicians may get more than just great exposure from the Burberry collaboration, there are music contracts to be had as well. Speaking of new talent, there were some interesting newbies on Milan’s men’s runways too. Unlike the womenswear season which is pretty much devoid of new talent, young men’s designers in Milan are making a serious mark. The pre-show buzz about Umit Benain was virtually deafening, and Albino showed his first men’s collection in a quiet but confident debut. Tomasso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi showed an elegant and relaxed collection for Gianfranco Ferré, even if it seemed out of step with the brand’s heritage and indeed, its more structured womenswear, designed by the same duo. All in all, after spending an enjoyable few days in the heart of Italy’s fashion community —and surrounded by some of the best dressed best men anywhere—it looks like the Italian menswear circuit may become part of the BoF roster in seasons to come. Imran Amed is Founder and Editor of The Business of Fashion, an official media partner of Pitti Immagine

BoF Daily Digest | Republic deal, Zegna at 100, Superdry outlet in-house, Harrods degree, D&G mens serious business Posted: 22 Jun 2010 03:34 AM PDT Diesel Be Stupid S/S 2010 | Source: The Inspiration Room TPG agrees 300 mln stg Republic fashion deal (Reuters) “U.S. buyout firm TPG [TPG.UL] is to buy British fashion retailer Republic in a deal worth about 300 million pounds ($445 million) from rival private equity house Change Capital Partners.” Zegna at 100: From the Alps to the World (IHT) “Ermenegildo Zegna — the company that celebrated its centennial Monday during Milan's menswear week…is the incarnation of the Italian dream. It is a family company, now embracing its fifth generation, with a global reach, but its heart beats in a paternalistic home in northern Italy.” Superdry brings online outlet in-house (Retail Week) “SuperGroup, the young fashion business which owns brands Superdry and chain Cult, has brought its online outlet for Superdry in-house as it looks to boost its online sales.” Get a degree in sales from Harrods (Guardian) “Harrods is known for purveying some unusual items in its vast gilt halls… Now it has entered a new market – one not usually associated with extravagance – education. From this summer, Harrods will be Britain’s first retailer to offer an honours degree in sales.” Dressing Men: A Delicate Balance (WSJ) “Dolce and Gabbana build one of the biggest and most successful men’s businesses. Half of the company’s €1.2 billion ($1.48 billion) in 2008 sales was generated by its men’s collection, a balance few other major fashion houses have achieved.”